Chanel No. 5: New & Improved?

I’ll openly admit that I had no idea who IFRA was until recently.

I purchase perfume, scented soaps and shampoos on a regular basis. And, like all of you, I also buy fragrance in forms the general public does not; Fragrance and essentials oils and others variants.

I never gave a thought to any type of “governing” body regulating fragrances. I just figured if it was being sold on the open market, that it’s legal.

I’m also under the opinion, that certain things may effect my skin adversely; I may be allergic or have reactions to certain ingredients. I then would stop using those ingredients.

Apparently, there is more to it than this. That is where IFRA, International Fragrance Association, comes into the picture.

IFRA: We promote the safe enjoyment of fragrances.

IFRA, the International Fragrance Association, is the official representative body of the fragrance industry worldwide. Its main purpose is to ensure the safety of fragrance materials through a dedicated science program. This focus on fragrance safety helps both the consumer and the environment.

IFRA does don’t make the law. They are a voluntary compliance organization made of up of 90% of the perfume and fragrance manufacturers. You do not have to belong, but if you do, it’s mandatory that you adhere to their standards and practices.

IFRA represents the fragrance industry regional and national associations worldwide. IFRA is the reflection of the industry’s choice to regulate itself and and its activities result in a Code of Practice and safety Standards, which members must adhere to, in order to achieve the objective of protecting consumers’ health and our environment.

Sounds innocent and well intended enough. Bu it seems IFRA  is even more aggressive in issuing safety standards than even the European Union.

“There seems to be a steady build-up of regulatory rules,” said Luca Turin, a scientist and perfume expert at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology.

A mild allergic reaction should not prevent great scents from being preserved, Turin said. After all, “to my knowledge perfume has never killed anyone,” Turin said.

The IFRA says consumer safety is the overwhelming priority.

“It’s not necessary for someone to die before we establish a safety standard,” said Matthias Vey, IFRA’s scientific director. “Skin contact is our biggest concern, and if you are sensitized you can develop a rash, skin redness, itching and swelling.”

I was made aware of IFRA recently in regards to some new regulatory % allowances on usage for different cosmetics and perfumes. This didn’t cause great concern until I read an article today  Allergen Rules May Alter Scents of Great Perfumes.

The article is mainly about how the iconic perfume, Chanel No. 5 may be in jeopardy. The use of natural jasmine will, for the first time, be restricted in all perfumes to 0.7 per cent of the finished product, to ensure that wearers have no allergic reaction to the flower.

This lead to a Google search where I stepped into an intriguing world of perfumer blogs. IFRA has been a hot topic for almost a year now, and there are not too many supporters of IFRA in sight.

This year, some perfume enthusiasts, including the Paris-based fragrance historian Octavian Sever Coifan, had, feared that new regulations from the International Fragrance Association (IFRA), which come into effect next January, would spell the end of Chanel No. 5.

But Jean-Pierre Houri, head of the IFRA, was categorical in his denial.

“Chanel No. 5 will be unaffected by the IFRA restrictions.” And a spokesperson for Chanel said that “Evidently when the new standards were issued we immediately checked the percentages in our finished products and in none of our fragrances is the recommended level exceeded.”

Ocatavian’s response, and I paraphrase:

… any journalist who wants to carry a deep investigation can analyze several samples in an independent lab. The amount of jasmine absolute (if it is 100% or combined with other jasmine absolutes) can be revealed.

And by the way, what other fragrances have today more jasmine absolute than No5 and Joy? If this expensive ingredient is used less than in No5 (that would not be affected), than why did they restrict its use?

I believe that several brands should reflect with a lot of care about their transparency because this mascarade (sic) might have bad effects in the near future if somebody will publish side by side analysis of several perfumes. Remember that formulas are not protected by any law and so “revealing” them to the public by a third part is not a crime.

The point being that, Chanel and other large perfumers have too much at stake. They will never admit to changing their product to comply with new safety standards and IFRA will protect them too. They need the high profile clients to give their organization creedence. So, they both say that the existing recipes and %’s are just fine and meet all standards.

Why doesn’t Chanel, Guerlain and other large companies fight back? From what  I could find, they are afraid of the backlash and possible lawsuits, like the tobacco industry has had to endure.

Suggestions of warning labels have been made, but I can’t seem to find any clear declaration of viewpoint on that issue. I guess IFRA has been open to that in the past, but it doesn’t seem as though they are open to it for perfumes.

Wow, who knew this was all going on. I found this all very fascinating and, I must say, I feel kind of special being involved and aware of the situation and process. The great perfumers of Paris are having the same issues effect them and their fields of jasmine as I do when I order ingredients for my special concoction of Almond Biscotti fragrance oil.

If you would like to read more, below are links to some great articles and blogs on perfume.

The Independent: The Sweet Smell Of Success

1000 Fragrances: Octavian Sever Coifan: Chanel No. 5 New or Not New, Endangered Fragrances

Legerdenez : The Chanel No. 5 Controversy, Are You Tired Of Hearing About IFRA Yet?

One Response to “Chanel No. 5: New & Improved?”

1. The Perfumers Association Bans Popular Perfumes says:

   November 19, 2009 at 9:21 am

   [...] Chanel No. 5: New & Improved? [...]